Posts Tagged ‘Parts’

Complex aluminum parts often leave behind burrs during the manufacturing process. Burrs can be located deep within tough to reach holes, or in more accessible locations along grooves. No matter where they are located, it is necessary to remove these burrs before the product is finished. Hydro de-burring is a process that can the removal of these burrs more efficient, while also making that removal repeatedly consistent as well.
Hydro de-burring machines use high-pressure water jets, that direct water at pressures ranging anywhere from 1,500 PSI to 7,500 PSI using from 5 to 30 GPM solution flow to knock away burrs at their root, leaving the part burr free. These machines are able to break off the burrs and blow away the residual chips, but they are not a miracle solution to all problems. Hydro de-burring cannot mechanically machine off the burrs, it does not leave behind a smooth end, nor does it make rounded edges. The manufacturer will need to continue whatever process they are using to achieve those ends once the de-burring unit is installed.
Although a hydro de-burring unit is limited in its ability to accomplish the goals listed above, it is effective in many other areas. For example, it effectively removes heavy grease and oil. Also, high pressure spray impingement can take off paint and knock out embedded sand and dirt. Pockets of embedded chips are also removed from the part, along with solvents left over from the cleaning process.
Hydro de-burring uses a system of hydraulically powered rotary high pressure water jets, which shoot water at a straight, 0 degree angle. This allows the water to hit the part at a right angle, ensuring that the jets will travel into any hole on the part as deep as possible.
The effectiveness of hydro de-burring depends on three factors. First, the volume of water used. It must be enough to have the power to knock off the burrs. Second, the speed of the water propelled through the jets must be sufficient. And finally, the thickness and type of burr that is being attacked. The thinner the root of the burr, the more effective the process will be. Larger burrs will require more water and higher pressures to be removed. A excellent test to determine if the burr being removed is of the right size is the pencil test. If a burr can be removed by a . 5mm diameter pencil lead that is 9. 00mm long without damaging the lead itself, then the burr can be removed with high-pressure water.
Hydro de-burring is an effective and efficient process, but it is not ideally suited for all manufacturers. Not all metal cutters leave burrs in the same location every time. In these cases, brushes and media tumblers are a better choice for the company. Hydro de-burring is effective, but it should not automatically be considered the best option. If the burr is not consistently placed, the jets will not be able to remove the burr all the time. If it is, the hydro system will remove it consistently and effectively.
Therefore, if a part has consistent placement of burrs, a high-pressure direct spray system is appropriate. An example of this can be found in an automotive transmission plant. An aluminum valve body, once milled, is left with a consistent roll over bore in the spool bore. A power brush cannot access the hole where the spur is located. A probing brush may be able to access the burr, but there is the chance that it will hurt the machined surface of the part and render it scrap.
A high-pressure water stream can shoot into the hole and knock the bore off with precision. It can then flush the burr out, and do no hurt to the machined surface. Assuming the burr is formed in the same spot in the prior stages, the high-pressure water system will deliver the best quality possible every time.
With this quality comes a high cost. Properly engineered high pressure deburr systems cost at least $500,000 or more. The high cost can be attributed to the bought components and customer driven plant safety regulations. Many of the parts necessary for a high-pressure system can cost upwards of $5,000. Hydro de-burr systems require parts such as:
-High Pressure Pump
-High Pressure nozzles and manifolds
-High Pressure tubing and hoses
-Filtration
-Oil Separation
-Fixtures to hold part in place
-Sound dampening measures
All of these parts can be expensive. But, if the hydro de-burr system is able to remove burrs quicker and simpler than a wire brush system on a particular part, it is well worth the cost to invest in the unit. The guaranteed removal of burrs combined with the lack of hurt to the part itself (wire brushes can remove burrs but also inflict hurt on the part) will help the manufacturer recoup their initial investment through production of high quality parts.
The high pressure system comes in many different types of machines. Manufacturers can pick from robotic transfer, conveyorized pallet, rotating dial table, chain driven, belt driven, manual, and automated machines, depending on the needs of their specific plant and part. They also include part drying and blow off stations, to ensure that the part received when finished is clean, burr-free, and dry.
Hydro de-burring is especially well loved within the automotive industry. Producers of oil pumps, engine blocks, valve bodies, transmission components, and crankshafts are among the users of hydro de-burring units. Any company with a repeatable, consistent burr production in their parts should consider a hydro system to make their production process better. If the money they will make from delivering a high-quality end product is worth the cost of the machine, then it may be time to invest in a hydro-deburring unit.

The Firbimatic washer allows manufacturers to use solvent cleaning in their plants while still adhering to environmental regulations in place to limit solvent use. The Firbimatic is designed with these specifications in mind, and controls the environmental impact of the solvent used.
The machine is hermetically sealed. Parts are loaded manually or by an automatic pusher into the process area, where solvent spray is applied as a pre-wash/yucky cleaning cycle. Solvent for this first step is obtained from a storage tank, known as Tank #1.
The solvent spray removes up to 70% of the soil from the parts, and then is pumped into the still for the distillation process that separates oil from solvent. The still is heated via plate and frame steam heat coils, which warm the solvent until it becomes a clean solvent vapor. In the first still, the oil is reduced to a level with 15% solvent. The vapor is clean due to the fact that the oil (or lubricant) cleaned off the parts boils at a higher temperature than the solvent. The solvent is sent to a second still, where the remaining oil is boiled. In industrial applications, virtually all of the solvent is boiled out of the oil using this dual still system. When the sill is not cleaning solvent from the pre-wash cycle, it is still running. The still is operating continuously, drawing from Tank #1 and boiling the solvent to vapor, and then directing it to the condenser.
The soil not boiled in the still travels via closed plumbing system into a storage drum, where it waits to be hauled away by a licensed hauler. Using a qualified hauler keeps the soil (with less than 5% solvent content) from contaminating the surrounding environment.
The clean, vaporized solvent moves to a chiller, where a plate and frame exchanger uses chilled water to condense the clean solvent vapor back to liquid form. The liquid solvent is then stored in a second, smaller tank, where it is kept until the final fluid rinsing stage.
In the immersion stage, after the pre-wash stage, new solvent is drawn from tank #1 and pumped into the process area for submersion of the parts. The parts are covered completely in solvent, and at this point different mechanical actions can help in the cleaning process. The basket can remain still, it can oscillate back and forth to go parts in the basket, or the entire load can be completely rotated on a constant basis to provide a more aggressive action. Also, a vacuum can be used to remove air bubbles in the process house so that ultrasonic action can be more effective.
The process development team determines the appropriate mechanical action after evaluating the design of the part to be washed. Once the submersion is complete, the used solvent is returned to the holding tank #1, where it is eventually drawn into the distillation process.
In the next stage, the parts receive a final solvent fluid rinse. The solvent that has been cleaned, vaporized, re-chilled and directed to tank #2 is used to rinse the parts before being pumped back into storage tank #1.
Following this fluid rinse, the parts are then subjected to a clean solvent vapor rinse with that vapor which is generated from the still. The vapor becomes fluid again when it comes into contact with the parts and removes the remaining soil. The vapor also warms the parts to prepare them for drying, and the condensed vapor returns to tank #1.
Once this cycle is complete, the parts are ready for the drying cycles. Using an electric fan, airflow is generated across the heated steam coils and into the process area to facilitate drying. The air is driven out of the process house and moves along the chilling coils to cool back down before it passes through the fan again. This cycle of air continues for a pre-determined duration to assure adequate drying is accomplished.
The heated drying cycle is followed by the vacuum drying cycle. A vacuum pump lowers treatment chamber pressure, which allows for the solvent to boil at a lower temperature. Therefore, the remaining solution is evaporated from the parts at the lowest possible temperature.
Charcoal absorption is the next phase in the process. This process assures that no solvent fumes are able to exit from the process area to the operator area. A fan directs air circulation through a Coalperc activated carbon recovery unit, which filters the air to remove solvent fumes. Once the concentration in the chamber is below 1g/m3, or 150 PPM, the process area door can be opened and the parts are removed.

This residue clogs the machine, and makes it hard for the washer to produce a clean product.
It is common for a company to believe that “cleaning the washer” means replacing the water and solution in the machine that is used for the cleaning. Simply changing the water in the machine is not enough to clean the washer. To truly clean the machine, attention must be paid to the entire process.
Soil accumulates in every part of the washer. Nozzles, heating devices, inside pump housings, material-handling components, as well as the side walls of the fluid and blow off stages. There can also be a tremendous accumulation of soil inside the plumbing itself. The soil contamination prevents the washer from performing to its abilities, resulting in parts that are not clean, which means the washer becomes a waste of floor space.
Cleaning the washer to ensure high performance can take from 4 to 12 hours. Naturally many companies do not wish to lose this amount of production time, but making the time sacrifice when it is deemed necessary will ensure parts are clean to the specification of the customer and avoid future problems.
Cleaning the machine and restoring performance capability to affected areas can be broken down into a nine-step process.
1. Schedule 4 to 12 hours of production down time to clean the washer.
2. Add descaling solution, at a 10-15% concentration ratio, to attack hard water salts, sludge, and scale buildup. The surfactants in the solution loosen the buildup, making removal simpler.
3. Remove nozzles and filter media from the washer.
4. Turn up the heat and run the pumps with no nozzles or filters for up to an hour. (Running with no back pressure, which is made by the nozzles puts too much pressure on the pump motor. This will burn the pump motor out if allowed to run free for an extended period. )
5. Replace the nozzles only and run the heated descaling solution while the conveyor and blower are on. Run machine for 4-8 hours to dislodge caked soil.
6. Remove solution and dispose.
7. Power spray the inside of the entire unit. Spray the tank, conveyor, fluid stages, blow off stage, heating coils and anywhere soil can be seen.
8. Remove solution and dispose.
9. Inspect all gaskets, nozzles, and filters. Replace if necessary.
10. Fill wash tank with proper chemistry.
Cleaning the washer is a hard and long task. Performing this process will require a person or team willing to handle one of the dirtiest jobs in a plant. There are products and add-ons that can be bought that will stretch the length of time between total system clean outs.
Nothing can replace manual cleaning, but these products will help keep the washer cleaner for longer.
1. In-process fluid treatments.
a. Screen baskets to catch large particles before the cleaning fluid re-enters the tank.
b. Particulate removing filter bags or filter paper systems that hold tighter microns as water is pumped from the tank to the spray manifolds.
c. Magnetic collection units to attract metal dust.
d. Oil-water separation systems to remove free-floating oil from water, and thereby return clean water to the tank.
e. Cleaning chemistries that split oil instead of holding it in suspension, making oil-water separation simpler.
f. Making use of oil-based or semi-synthetic metal forming lubricant, allowing oil-water separators to do their jobs simpler.
2. Use quick fit nozzles. These nozzles can be removed easily with a quarter turn and pull, and then replaced within seconds.
3. Use quick-fit Victaulic or grooved piping instead of threaded piping for manifold connectors. These pipes can be cleaned quickly and easily with compressed air and a snake.
4. Install a Blow off section spray down manifold. This manifold is automatically fed from the rinse pump for 5 minutes each time the washer shuts down. This sprays away oils, dried chemicals and particles that have been carried over to the blow off stage. With the spray coming on with only the blower and the conveyor running, the fluid easily drains back to the rinse tank where it can be treated with the other soils.
Using a combination of these products will keep your washer running cleaner, longer. This is especially useful for companies that have a hard time finding employees to perform the manual maintenance necessary. While these products do not replace manual cleaning, when the time comes, the company can place a call to the washer vendor and start a maintenance contract to ensure the work is performed correctly.

Several common issues often arise when operating an industrial production parts washer. Difficulties starting the machine, unsatisfactory cleaning and parts not drying sufficiently are the main resulting deficiencies that usually can be attributed to a contributing factor. These issues can usually be remedied if the manufacturer is able to learn the root cause of the issue.
If the machine is having distress starting or is otherwise incapable of running, it does not necessarily indicate a major problem. Rather, it may simply be an issue with the electrical controls. The first step necessary to get the machine running is to check all the emergency stop buttons on the machine and make sure they have not been pushed in to activate them accidentally. The operator must ensure that they are in the “out-or-run position.
If this proves not to be the issue, check the voltage and amperage on the control panel. Make sure that the machine is receiving an adequate amount of energy and that the control panel lights come on when the master knife switch is in the “On” position. From there, be sure to press the green “Master Start” button that is on the control panel, usually at the top left side of the panel, and then check the PLC screen or lighted push buttons to confirm that the machine is in “Auto” mode, rather than “Manual” mode. Finally, look at the red, amber, and green warning light tree located on the top of the control panel. If the red or amber lights are on, a fault or component distress may be the cause of the stoppage. See your control panel PLC screen or lighted push buttons for red or fault indications for the individual systems of the machine.
If the machine stoppage is due to a bought component problem such as a blower motor, pump motor, drive motor or heating element, there are a few steps that can be taken. First, make sure the machine is off. Then check the failing component to see if it is physically jammed or otherwise stuck. If it appears to be acceptable, check the electrical box of the component and see if the conduit or wires leading to the box are hurt or have been pulled out. If the component has an inlet filter as is the case with a blower, then remove that filter and check to see if it is being clogged by excessive debris. Finally, check the service life of the component and compare that to how long the component has been in use. It may simply be nearing the end of the lifespan.
Occasionally the washer will stop producing clean parts. Whenever this happens, it is time to check the condition of the bath. If the bath is saturated with soil, then change the solution making up the bath, along with the filters cleaning the solution. After the solution is removed, then use a heated, high pressure power sprayer to clean the tank. This preventative maintenance should be performed regularly in order to prevent cleaning failures. If the bath is of acceptable quality, go on to other possible causes. Make sure that the bath soap concentration is right and that the proper cleaning chemistry has been mixed into the bath.
Next, inspect the spray headers, making sure that the cleaning solution is coming out of the nozzles in the right spray pattern. If the nozzles are plugged or just dirty, clean or change the affected nozzles. Also look to ensure that the spray headers are in the proper position, and they have not been broken or bent by an improperly loaded part.
Finally, check the pumps to be sure that they are pumping at the proper pressures. The right pressure is indicated by the flow gauges on the filtration system, or in the control panel depending on the configuration of the machine.
The drying stage of the washing process is another area where problems occur. To troubleshoot your dryer, first turn off the machine. If the machine includes a blow off system, then check the air blower and make certain that they are operating at the proper pressure. The digital gauges for positive back pressure indicate the right pressure for this stage. Then go on to check the hoses which lead from the blower(s) to the air knives or air nozzles. Make sure that they are not broken, split, or obstructed in any manner.
To check these nozzles or knives you will have to remove the filter covers as the hosing is inside the machine and connected directly to the blowers. If the machine has a dryer system rather than blow off, check the squirrel cage blower and make sure that it is running. Also inspect the cage blower to see if the fins are obstructed. Then check the opening from the fan box to the drying stage and ensure that is not obstructed, allowing for hot air to the be re-circulated to the parts.
After performing these checks, if the problem is not solved or a specific problem is identified but requires help, you will need to contact the service department of the vendor who provided the washer. They will provide a crew to perform the necessary maintenance work and get your washer back up and running to the standards expected.

A washer works hard to ensure that parts come out clean and ready for the next production process. To keep the machine working at a high level, it must be cleaned on a regular basis. The contamination removed from the parts does not magically disappear; it builds up in the tank and can greatly reduce performance. Performing a tank and system clean out is an vital part of the routine maintenance a washer requires.
To start the process, turn off the automatic water fill supply and remove the nozzles and filters for cleaning. Pay attention to the direction spray angles of the nozzles in relation to the flow of the parts through the washer. Most nozzles will have an indication, either a slit or indented line, which shows the angle. It will be vital to replace the nozzles in the right position.
After the nozzles and filters have been removed, add a washer cleaning chemistry to the current wash solution. Heat the new solution to 160F, or the highest level attainable. Turn on the pumps and let them run for 30 minutes.
Clean the sludge that has been removed during this process and replace the nozzles. NOTE: If you run the pump for an extended period without the nozzles, then the pump motor will not sense the appropriate back pressure and the pump will burn up. After replacing the nozzles, turn the pumps back on and let them run undisturbed for 4 to 8 hours and allow the solution to work on the tank. Once the time is up, pump or drain the solution from the tank.
Now that the solution is gone, remove the shed sheets. There are 1-2 of these flat metal sheets, and they are located below the conveyor that covers the tank in the majority of machines. The sheets normally will have a #-20 stainless steel bolt in one of the corners. Remove the bolt and allow the sheets to be went forward or backward to gain access to the inside of the tanks. Also remove the marine clean out door on the side of the machine. Be careful not to hurt the door during this procedure. If a seal is torn or hurt, replace it before the machine is refilled. Once these are went, clean out any sludge, debris, or sediment from the tank bottom and sides.
Use a power washer to completely clean the interior of the machine, beginning at the top and moving down. Make sure to clean the heater elements, auto-fill valve, wash headers, and blow-off headers. Check all corners or other areas that could catch dirt.
Completely clean any oil removal devices, and flush the tank of the remaining dirty solution. Then remove the clean pump inlet screen and chip basket for cleaning. Wipe down the outside of the machine. Take some time to inspect the interior and exterior components of the machine for hurt or missing parts. Make notes of any hurts or problems for repair.
Replace the shed sheets and the clean out doors, making sure that the doors are in excellent condition before doing so. Replace the doors in the reverse order from how they were removed, and then replace any other devices that were removed from the machine during cleaning. Place the nozzles back in their original position, making certain that they are at the right angle and aim.
Refill the tank with a new solution of cleaning chemistry, and turn on the heat. Observe this process to make sure everything is running smoothly. Run the pumps and observe the gauge readings, making sure there are no more than 10-15PSI differences before filter and after filter. If there is, replace the filter.
Once the solution has reached the right temperature, check the spray pattern on parts moving through to ensure the machine is running correctly. Remove the wash door, using a piece of Lexan the size of the door, and observe. If it is right, replace the door.
Performing this maintenance on your washer will help keep it running efficiently for a long time. Cleaning out the debris and inspecting the main parts of the washer allow you to head off major maintenance problems before they become too large of a problem to deal with. The shut down in production time that will take place during cleaning is more desirable than the extended shut down which will inevitably occur if cleaning is not performed and maintenance goes unchecked.