Archive for the ‘gas powered pressure washers’ Category

What brand and type and power level of pressure washer should I buy to clean OIL Stains off the driveway?

Would I need electric or gas powered? I got some tough stains on my driveway street area’s that I want to clean up. My car USED to leak oil and I despise the oil stains onb the ground…They are kind of Ancient stains and I tried all types of chemicals already to clean them but they didn’t completely work. I want to try a pressure washer / cleaner now.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Buy yourself a container of oil remover for hard surfaces from Halfords – Gunk or items listed below and treat the ancient stains with that first scrubbing the surface with a stiff brush. The top 3 driveway cleaners are:
1. Swarfega Oil & Grease remover
2. B&Q Patio and Drive Cleaner
3. Clarke Concrete Cleaner

It runs fine until you turn the pressure on, and then it dies.

Sounds like too much air going into the carb to me. Does the model you have require the plastic hose for solutions be attached to the inlet, brass looking thing. Attach it and see, if not check hose connections, if not secure, air to carb will do just what you have described. excellent luck

The 2007 Dodge Nitro is an all new mid-size SUV monster. Dodge redesigned the full-size Durango in 2004, and since then has been plotting the Nitro. There are many mid-size SUVs out there, and Dodge wanted the Nitro to be distinctive, in order to keep up its reputation for bold styling. The result is a very squared-off vehicle, with larger fender flares.

The Nitro looks and feels larger than its size, with a high seating position that SUV owners delight in, and excellent cabin space. It features a cargo storage system whereby the rear seats and front passenger seat fold really flat in seconds; additionally, the cargo floor slides rearward out over the rear bumper, and can hold 400 pounds, making the loading of heavy objects much simpler.

The Nitro comes in either two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive, with a choice of V6 engines, one ancient and one new version. The new 4. 0-liter V6 is better than the ancient 3. 7-liter, with 50 more HP and fuel economy that’s only a few miles per gallon less. But the 4. 0-liter engine only comes in the top-of-the-line R/T model, which costs about $2700 more than the most well loved SLT but a five-speed automatic also comes with the R/T, and that transmission is better than the standard four-speed in the SLT.

There are three types of upholstery: cloth, a stain-repellant cloth, and perforated leather. No matter which interior option, the seats are very comfortable. The cabin is silent thanks to heavy use of sound deadening material, and visibility out the rear and to the front corners of the Nitro is brilliant.

For a base price of $19,225, a Nitro owner gets many safety features that are usually optional on other vehicles, such as front and rear side airbags, side curtain airbags, an electronic stability program with traction control and brake help, and a tire-pressure monitor to cap it all off.

Model Lineup

The 2007 Dodge Nitro comes as three models, each with a choice of two-wheel drive (2WD) or four-wheel drive (4WD).

There are three models of the new 2007 Dodge Nitro: the SXT in 2WD, $20,735 with part-time 4WD), SLT ($22,635 and $24,145) and R/T and with full-time 4WD); all prices plus $660 delivery.

The SXT ($19,225) comes with a 210-hp 3. 7-liter V6 and a choice of 6 speed manual transmission or 4 speed automatic ($1000). The 4WD model ($20,735) uses a part-time four-wheel-drive system. Standard equipment includes cloth upholstery, air conditioning, remote entry with power windows and door locks, 115-volt power outlet, flat folding front passenger seat, 60/40 folding rear bench seat, AM/FM/CD with MP3 and six speakers, traction control and brake help, slate-colored molded front and fender flares, folding power mirrors, rear window washer/wiper, and 16-inch wheels.

The SLT ($22,635) and SLT 4WD ($24,145) come standard with the auto trans. The SLT adds stain-resistant cloth seats, power six-way adjustable driver’s seat, leather steering wheel with audio controls, overhead console, cruise control, heated mirrors, compass, auto-dimming rearview mirror, vehicle information instrumentation, tinted windows, body-colored front and rear fascias and fender flares, and 17-inch aluminum wheels.

The R/T ($25,310) has a new 4. 0-liter V6 making 260 horsepower, joined to a five-speed automatic. The R/T 4WD model ($26,970) has a full-time four-wheel-drive system. The R/T comes with a sports suspension with 20-inch wheels and Goodyear Eagle tires. The R/T is equipped like the SLT, though it also has Satellite Radio.

Options for all three models include a power sunroof, foglamps, full-size spare tire, and trailer tow package. Full-time 4WD is an option on the part-time 4WD SXT and SLT models. Options for the SLT and R/T include leather upholstery, navigation system, remote start, hands-free phone, luxury sound system with eight speakers plus subwoofer. The optional Multimedia Info-tainment System features navigation, audio, entertainment and communication wrapped into one, along with voice-command and a 20-gigabyte hard drive to store music and photos. Dodge Nitro Reviews

Walkaround

Dodge publicity makes a huge thing about the Nitro’s looks, citing its so-called athleticism. We’re not sure. We might call it brawny, but mostly it just looks boxy. The exaggerated fender flares are the only rounded parts in the styling. Every other angle is square-ish. It looks and feels larger than mid-size, which some will find to be a excellent thing.

From the front, it’s unmistakably Dodge. It’s got that huge crosshair grille, which looks much better in body color (R/T) than chrome (SXT, SLT). The horizontal headlamps, turn signal slits and foglamps are a tidy fit in the massive face.

But it doesn’t appear as if much attempt was made to have the front bumper/fascia be tidy; it’s got edges all over the place, including a valley that might hold a three-foot-wide license plate, or maybe a bumper sticker that says, “I’m a Dodge so I’m in your face!” Under that, there’s a wide air intake for the power steering cooler, whose thin fins are exposed to flying stones because there is no screen.

Taking a cue from the faux portholes on the Buick Lucerne, or possibly the tradition of a Mercedes-Benz sports car, there’s a trapezoid-shaped insert, black plastic with three chrome ribs, located just forward of the mirrors. It’s intended to look like a cooling slot. It’s a nice touch, and for such a small piece it goes a long way toward relaxing the Nitro’s blocky shape.

In silhouette, with its relatively upright windshield, very high beltline and rectangular windows, plus small front overhang, its shape is reminiscent of, say, a ‘62 Dodge Power Wagon. But from the rear three-quarter angle, the lines around the rear glass are reminiscent of its larger cousin, the Jeep Commander. We like the cleaner black, rather than chrome, around the windows.

Our test Nitro R/T was equipped with standard 20-inch chromed aluminum wheels, and they sure are showy. The much narrower sidewall on the 20-inch tires doesn’t appear to offer much defense against flats.

Interior Features

The SXT comes in a basic cloth, but the cloth in the SLT and R/T is something called YES Essentials; it claims to repel stains, control odors and reduce static electricity. The optional perforated charcoal leather with red stitching in our test R/T was gorgeous. The front buckets were very comfortable and supportive, with brilliant bolstering.

The steering wheel is a handsome four-spoke, with a huge center hub and thick spokes at 9:00 and 3:00 o’clock, smaller spokes at 5 and 7; the info center buttons are under your thumb on the huge spokes. There are three huge main instruments: speedo in center, tach on right and fuel and temp on left. They’re very excellent looking and especially legible, with the digital information still visible in the sun because the three pods are thoughtfully shrouded. Chrysler does gauges right, and generally blows GM out of the water when it comes to handsome style and function.

There’s excellent front seat legroom, and it feels like there’s even more because the dashboard is narrow, making the cabin feel nothing like that in a minivan. The dash also has an insert over the center stack, about 6 by 9 inches with grippy rubber at the bottom, and it’s perfect for, well, things. The glovebox is the full width of the passenger side.

Rearview visibility is very excellent, with just windows back there, no attempt at swoopy styling with sheetmetal. And again, because the front fenders have no rise or real shape, it’s simple to see the front corners of the vehicle, making parking a relief compared to many vehicles this size.

The square theme continues with the center stack and its instruments and buttons for the sound system and climate control, although nowadays many cars look like that, which isn’t terrible, just nearly natural. Everything is clean, simple to operate, and simple to know. We especially like the door handles, an intelligent ergonomic design: they’re like a half loop, and you simply slip three or four fingers of the hand against the door inside the handle, fingers facing forward so there’s no twist of the wrist, and pull.

Between the seats, along with the gearshift, transfer case, and emergency brake lever, there are two fixed cupholders and a small recess for change. There’s a shallow tray in the top of the center console storage bin, and a deep compartment under that; as one lady on the press launch said, it’s huge enough to stash her cat, on road trips.

But the Nitro really rises to the occasion behind the front seat. The Load ‘n Go function quickly and easily flops the 60/40 rear seats and front passenger seat really flat. With the liftgate raised, the carpeted (washable vinyl on the SXT) cargo floor slides rearward 18 inches, out over the bumper, saving a loader’s back. It can hold 400 pounds.

Under half of the cargo floor there’s a four-inch-deep compartment that can store things such as jumper cables and tools, or hide a laptop.

For the past couple of years, Dodge has been working hard on making their SUVs silent, and the Nitro succeeds. The 3. 7-liter engine is rather loud, but the Nitro’s sound-deadening material muffles it well.

Finally, the air conditioning might be fine on a normal day, but it seemed marginal for hot conditions.

Driving Impressions

After long cruises in both the Dodge Nitro SLT 4WD and R/T 2WD, we prefer the R/T.

The 3. 7-liter engine in the SLT is slightly harsh and too slow, and the four-speed automatic transmission needs another gear; we floored the SLT once at 40 mph, and the tranny didn’t kick down and the vehicle felt wimpy. The suspension takes bumps with a jolt, especially at lower speeds and mostly at the front wheels. And when we turned off the stability control and drove it aggressively around a hairpin turn, the front end washed out as terribly as anything we’ve felt in a long time, on its Goodyear Wrangler tires. This was surprising, because the Nitro is a rear-wheel-drive design.

The R/T costs about $2700 more, but it’s def. worth it. It’s better looking, with more of its trim in the same color as the body, although the 20″ chrome wheels are a bit expensive (as a $1405 option on the SLT, too terrible you can’t get 17-” size on the R/T and save the money). Chrysler’s R/T models are considered higher performance, but in this case it’s not hot-rod high performance.

The 4. 0-liter V6 is a new single overhead-cam engine. It’s rated at 260 horsepower, 50 more than the engine in the SLT, and it provides 265 pound-feet of torque at 4200 rpm. That’s a lot of horsepower and torque, and we can’t say that the R/T really feels like it has that much.

The R/T engine is quieter than the 3. 7-liter in the SLT, and it gets nearly the same mileage: 17 city and 21 highway in 2WD, with 89 octane recommended but 87 acceptable. We got 16. 7 mpg driving the R/T very hard.

The five-speed automatic transmission makes a difference in smoothness over the 4-speed. But in manual mode, it doesn’t do well. It responds to a shift by the driver (at least this driver) about half the time. As a result, passing on highways is unnecessarily perilous. The upshifts near redline (6000 rpm) are also a bit slow. And the shift mechanism is not comfortable, either.

The handling of the R/T is reasonable, and considerably more direct than the SLT; quality tires help quite a bit. But it’s the ride that’s much better, in this 2WD model. In theory, the R/T’s tuned suspension should be much more firm, and surely it is a better vehicle overall, but it’s also a lot more comfortable.

Summary

The Nitro is the first mid-size SUV from Dodge, and has all the Dodge character. It’s built on the same platform as the Jeep Liberty, and really feels larger than its size, thanks largely to a high beltline, high seating position, and much glass instead of sheetmetal at the rear corners. It’s not simple to make an SUV look distinctive, and the Nitro does well. Mechanically, it’s stimied by the 3. 7-liter engine and four-speed automatic transmission in the SXT and SLT, the most well loved models.

Model as tested

Dodge Nitro R/T ($25,310) Base Price

19225

Basic Warranty

3 years/50,000 miles Price as tested

28645

Assembled in

Toledo, Ohio Options as tested

Trailer Tow Group, power sunroof, AM/FM/6 CD/DVD/MP3 with 8 speakers plus subwoofer, full-size spare, hands-free communications ($2675)

Destination charge:

660

Gas guzzler tax:

N/A

Model Line Overview

Model lineup

Dodge Nitro SXT 2WD ($19,225); SXT 4WD ($20,735); SLT 2WD ($22,635); SXT 4WD ($24,145); R/T 2WD ($25,310); R/T 4WD ($26,970) Engines

4. 0-liter sohc V6

Safety equipment (standard)

multi-stage frontal airbags, front and rear side-impact airbags, curtain airbags; anti-lock disc brakes, electronic stability program with traction control and brake help, electronic roll mitigation, child seat anchor system, tire-pressure monitor Transmissions

5-speed automatic

Safety equipment (optional)

Specifications as Tested

Standard equipment

air conditioning, remote entry with power windows and door locks, power six-way adjustable driver’s seat, flat folding front passenger seat, 60/40 folding rear bench seat, Load ‘n Go cargo storage system with tie-down rails, AM/FM/CD with MP3 and six speakers, SIRIUS satellite radio, folding power heated mirrors, rear window washer/wiper, tilt steering column, cruise control, tinted windows, overhead console, vehicle information instrumentation, compass, 115-volt power outlet, auto-dimming rearview mirror, leather-wrapped steering wheel with audio controls, and 20-inch aluminum wheels

Engine & Transmission

Engine

4. 0-liter sohc V6 Transmission

5-speed automatic

Drivetrain type

rear-wheel drive EPA fuel economy, city/hwy

17/21

Horsepower (hp @ rpm)

260 @ 6000 Torque (lb. -ft. @ rpm)

265 @ 4200

Suspension

Brakes, front/rear

disc/disc with ABS Tires

P245/50R20

Suspension, front

independent Suspension, rear

independent

Accomodations

Seating capacity

5 Head/hip/leg room, front

40. 6/56. 8/40. 8

Head/hip/leg room, middle

N/A Head/hip/leg room, rear

40. 8/47. 4/37. 7

Measurements

Fuel capacity

19. 5 Payload

N/A

Trunk volume

75. 6 Towing capacity

5000

Wheelbase

108. 8 Track, front/rear

61. 0/61. 0

Length/width/height

178. 9/73. 1/69. 9 Ground clearance

7. 3

Turning circle

36. 3 Curb weight

39712007 Dodge Nitro User Reviews

It is that time of year for a road trip. Whether it is you and your friends or the whole family, there are some things to consider before driving off into the sunset. With a small time and pre-road trip preparation, you can save yourself some potential problems and huge bucks.

To start, take your car in for some all-over maintenance. Things to have checked include:

1. Wiper Blades – Inspect the condition of the blade material (it should be soft and pliable) for cracks or separation from the blade retainer.

2. Lights – Check the turn signals, headlights and brake lights, making sure they operate properly. It is a excellent thought to have the headlights checked for proper alignment in order to have optimum lighting and to prevent the “blinding” of oncoming drivers.

3. Tires – Check tires for excessive or uneven wear and tire pressure. It’s vital to check the tire pressure when the tires are cold. The recommended tire pressure provided by the vehicle and tire manufacturers are designed to compensate for the increase in tire pressure caused by the rise in temperature of the tire when it is rolling down the highway.

4. Fluid Levels – Lift the hood and check the engine oil, automatic transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, radiator coolant, and windshield washer fluid levels. Top off if necessary.

5. Belts & Hoses – Check hoses for proper fit, leaks, brittleness, loose clamps, and softness in the elbow areas. As for the belts, check for alignment, glazing, adjustment, and tearing and cracking. Replace if necessary.

6. Air Conditioning – Test the A/C system to see that it is working and cooling the vehicle down in a reasonable time. Also, inspect the refrigerant lines for evidence of leaks. Remember, on most late-model vehicles, the defroster system utilizes the air conditioning for more efficient defrosting and defogging.

7. Battery Connections – Check / clean battery posts and cable terminals for corrosive buildup. White fuzz that surrounds the cable terminal ends at the battery posts can easily identify a corrosive condition. Cleaning or removal of the white fuzz requires the removal of the cable terminals after washing them down with a baking soda and water solution. The best cleaning results can then be achieved by using a battery post and cable terminal-cleaning tool. Performing this small maintenance activity will ensure optimum performance from the vehicle’s electrical system.

8. Fluid Leaks – Examine the ground where you park your vehicle for leaks. Any fluid residue found should be examined for the type of fluid (gas, engine or transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, radiator coolant, windshield washer fluid), and the leak repaired immediately to avoid any problems.

9. Exhaust Leaks – Listen / look for leaks from the exhaust system, and if something seems marginal, have the system checked by a professional mechanic / muffler shop prior to leaving for your trip. The life you save may be your own, as the gases escaping from the system are very deadly.

10. Brakes – Test-drive the vehicle for brake response and feel. Listen for noises (high-pitched squeal, grinding or clunking). Look for fluid leaks from flexible brake hoses and steel brake lines. If you feel your mechanical expertise is limited in this area, I would recommend you have a professional look at your brakes to advise you on the condition of the brake friction material, drums, rotors, and the hydraulic system. It is vital that the vehicle always be prepared to stop regardless of the driving conditions.

Once your car is in top shape, make sure you have a basic emergency kit on board. The kit’s contents could be dependent on where you are going. If you are heading off to the desert in the summer you will want extra water. Going north where there is snow, take blankets and snow chains. But when it comes to the basics, your emergency kit should include:

1. Assortment of Combination Wrenches, Screwdrivers, and Pliers

2. Flashlight / Spare Batteries for Flashlight

3. Roadside Flares / Battery Operated Roadside Marker Lights (If you don’t like playing with fire)

4. First Aid Kit

5. Battery Jumper Cables

6. Blanket, Food, and Something to Drink (In case you’re stuck for awhile)

7. Cell phone charger

Last, once everything is in order, the most vital thing to prepare for on your road-trip is the right music. Maybe it won’t keep you safe, but it sure will make everything much more enjoyable.

It doesn’t matter if you have your own car, lease a vehicle or borrow mom’s ancient minivan, driving in winter’s snow and ice is not something you want to do unprepared. Here are some helpful hints to get you ready for the road once cold weather sets in. Overall Inspection of the Vehicle You’ll want to do an overall inspection of the automobile. Listed here are twelve things you can check to ensure safe and better driving this winter season. 1. ) Windshield – Every windshield (front and back) suffers from what engineers call “thermal shock” – that freezing and then thawing of the glass brought on by colder temperatures and then sudden warmer sun or defrosters. Even the smallest ding or crack in the glass can become a large problem under thermal shock. Repairing a small knick can cost as small as $50, but replacing an entire shield can cost hundreds, not to mention disabling your vehicle for a much longer period of time than a simple repair. 2. ) Tires – Everyone knows that bald, or even worn tires aren’t much excellent on snow and ice. Not everyone thinks to check the alignment of their tires, though. Poorly aligned or balanced tires can be as perilous as poorly treaded ones. Tires need proper inflation, as well, to get optimum grip while driving on wintry roads. The pressure in your tires drops 1 pound for every 10° F drop in temperature. Check the pressure regularly throughout the winter, especially when the temperature fluctuates significantly. Make sure your spare is in excellent order, too, as flat tires can occur anytime of the year. 3. ) Hoses and belts – The rubber in the hoses and belts under the hood can suffer from the cold. They should be thoroughly checked for cracks, bulges and splits. Again, this is a simple thing to repair or replace prior to having a problem, but costly to fix afterward. 4. ) Fluids – Any “car guy” will tell that keeping your fluids at the proper level is one of the simplest, cheapest and best ways to keep your car in tiptop shape, regardless of the weather. Of course, there’s the oil, transmission fluid, anti-freeze and brake fluid to worry about. Don’t forget, though, to check your radiator and battery fluids, too. And make sure you engine coolant is diluted with water to prevent freezing. Last but possibly most vital to driver safety is the windshield washer fluid. There’s nothing more perilous than being spattered by slush and road muck by a passing vehicle and not having enough washer fluid to clear your windshield. 5. ) Wipers – Worn windshield wipers can cause perilous situations year round, but especially so in the winter, when visibility can be poor to start with due to snow or sleet. Make sure your blades clear their entire path completely. If not, get them replaced. It’ll be well worth the small cost in money and time. 6. ) Battery and Cables – Those cold mornings can be murder on older, worn batteries. They usually last only 3 to 4 years under the best of conditions, anyway. If yours is older than that, or you’re not sure of the age, either have a mechanic check it or simply replace it. Have the cables and fittings checked, too, for corrosion. Make sure every start is a excellent start. 7. ) Spark plugs – Terrible plugs are no excellent for your vehicle, or your gas budget, any time of the year. Not only do they waste fuel but they also increase emissions, which isn’t excellent for the environment, either. Do everyone a favor and replace them. 8. ) Brakes – Driving with poor brakes is perilous enough, without the added dangers of snow, ice and slippery roads. Brakes that pull to one side can really cause skidding. If your car needs brake work, get it tended to before the cold weather hits. If you can’t, it may be best to consider taking the bus. 9. ) Lights – If other drivers can’t see you, that’s a terrible thing. And if you can’t see where you are going, that’s even worse. Malfunctioning headlights or taillights are another item that’s perilous year round, but doubly so in the winter. Remember when clearing the car of snow and ice before starting on your trip to clear your lights, too, for maximum visibility. 10. ) Gas tank – A fuller tank reduces the risk of condensation forming. Condensation can cause gas line freezing. You can reduce the risk even further by adding gasoline antifreeze periodically throughout the winter when you fill up. A fuller tank also ensures your safety and going power should you get stuck in a traffic jam and have to choose between keeping the car running for heat, or turning it off to not use your last few drops of gas in the tank. 11. ) Oil and filters – Sluggish, dirty oil can make your engine start slower, warm up slower and perform at less-than-optimum in the winter months. An oil change is another quick and inexpensive maintenance task that can be performed by just about anyone. Many of the other checks suggested in this article can be performed by your local grease monkey along with an oil change. While you’re at it, check your oil filter, air filter and transmission filter, too. Overall performance can be affected if one or more of these needs replaced. 12. ) Exhaust system – Since winter’s cold weather necessitates driving with the windows rolled up tight, a carbon monoxide leak in your muffler or exhaust pipe system can be deadly. A quick check for escaping exhaust will tell you if the system needs repair. Keeping your car in excellent running order through the cold months of winter can be simple and simple. Not only will you get there and back simpler, but you’ll be more confident that your vehicle is performing at its best. Don’t let poor maintenance keep you from arriving safely and securly every time.