Archive for January, 2010

Pt 14/14 Pressure Washer First Aid is about the first aid part of pressure washing; how to address cuts, scrapes, chemical spills, chemical burns, etc. It also addresses the physical training of pressure washing; how to train your muscles to be able to handle pressure washing all day. This is a 14 video series on youtube.

Compliments of Delco Cleaning Systems of Fort Worth at 800-433-2113, email: delco@dcs1.com , www.dcs1.com , or www.pressurewash.com .

Duration : 0:1:56

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Homeowners always see floor stains as a headache. Cleaning floor stains due to oil, grease, grime, road salt, and dirt penetrating the garage is very hard to clean. It’s a excellent thing that there are many garage floor cleaners being sold today. But which one of them works best for you?
To know that, first, you have to determine the real cause of the stain in your garage floor. The type of garage covering you use should also be considered. For painted garage floors, the simplest solution could just be the application of a fresh new coat of paint over the problem spot.
While that seems to be a excellent thought, you need to be sure that the paint coating you’ll use would really stick into the surface. Because if it didn’t, you’ll go back to your ancient problem – floor stains. And you can make it worse even.
Here is where the range of garage floor cleaners available in the market comes in. Thing is, before you place a coat of paint to the garage floor, it has to be cleaned thoroughly.
Do it just like the very first time that you painted your garage floor. Clear the surface of dirt, grime, and oil. And you’ll need an effective floor cleaner for that.
Try to use the pressure washer to clean your floor. It water and regular detergent are able to clean the garage floor, they you’re lucky. Try to increase the water pressure to 1200 psi for simple cleaning. For maximum effects, get an anti-grease detergent.
If the floor stains are history, then you won’t have to buy commercial garage floor cleaners anymore. If a pressure washer isn’t available, you can alternately use a steam cleaner.
If the stain is a stubborn one, you really have to go for specialty garage floor cleaners. You can either make them or buy them from stores. If you don’t have time to make one, just head to the hardware shop and make the buy.
But before using it, take time to know the product’s usage instructions. Buy the most recommended brand so the stain is removed and there’s no need to repaint the floor.
To make garage floor cleaners, you’ll need an all-purpose detergent. The grease-cutting variant is most preferable. Dissolve it in half gallon of cool water. Add a cup of ammonia. Be sure that your hands are well protected as you combine these chemicals together. Wear overalls too – especially when you are cleaning the garage.
You are also going to need the pressure washer, sponge mop, and some soft cloth for drying up the floor. The air in the garage should circulate freely when you are working inside it to prevent possible suffocation.

The 2007 Dodge Nitro is an all new mid-size SUV monster. Dodge redesigned the full-size Durango in 2004, and since then has been plotting the Nitro. There are many mid-size SUVs out there, and Dodge wanted the Nitro to be distinctive, in order to keep up its reputation for bold styling. The result is a very squared-off vehicle, with larger fender flares.

The Nitro looks and feels larger than its size, with a high seating position that SUV owners delight in, and excellent cabin space. It features a cargo storage system whereby the rear seats and front passenger seat fold really flat in seconds; additionally, the cargo floor slides rearward out over the rear bumper, and can hold 400 pounds, making the loading of heavy objects much simpler.

The Nitro comes in either two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive, with a choice of V6 engines, one ancient and one new version. The new 4. 0-liter V6 is better than the ancient 3. 7-liter, with 50 more HP and fuel economy that’s only a few miles per gallon less. But the 4. 0-liter engine only comes in the top-of-the-line R/T model, which costs about $2700 more than the most well loved SLT but a five-speed automatic also comes with the R/T, and that transmission is better than the standard four-speed in the SLT.

There are three types of upholstery: cloth, a stain-repellant cloth, and perforated leather. No matter which interior option, the seats are very comfortable. The cabin is silent thanks to heavy use of sound deadening material, and visibility out the rear and to the front corners of the Nitro is brilliant.

For a base price of $19,225, a Nitro owner gets many safety features that are usually optional on other vehicles, such as front and rear side airbags, side curtain airbags, an electronic stability program with traction control and brake help, and a tire-pressure monitor to cap it all off.

Model Lineup

The 2007 Dodge Nitro comes as three models, each with a choice of two-wheel drive (2WD) or four-wheel drive (4WD).

There are three models of the new 2007 Dodge Nitro: the SXT in 2WD, $20,735 with part-time 4WD), SLT ($22,635 and $24,145) and R/T and with full-time 4WD); all prices plus $660 delivery.

The SXT ($19,225) comes with a 210-hp 3. 7-liter V6 and a choice of 6 speed manual transmission or 4 speed automatic ($1000). The 4WD model ($20,735) uses a part-time four-wheel-drive system. Standard equipment includes cloth upholstery, air conditioning, remote entry with power windows and door locks, 115-volt power outlet, flat folding front passenger seat, 60/40 folding rear bench seat, AM/FM/CD with MP3 and six speakers, traction control and brake help, slate-colored molded front and fender flares, folding power mirrors, rear window washer/wiper, and 16-inch wheels.

The SLT ($22,635) and SLT 4WD ($24,145) come standard with the auto trans. The SLT adds stain-resistant cloth seats, power six-way adjustable driver’s seat, leather steering wheel with audio controls, overhead console, cruise control, heated mirrors, compass, auto-dimming rearview mirror, vehicle information instrumentation, tinted windows, body-colored front and rear fascias and fender flares, and 17-inch aluminum wheels.

The R/T ($25,310) has a new 4. 0-liter V6 making 260 horsepower, joined to a five-speed automatic. The R/T 4WD model ($26,970) has a full-time four-wheel-drive system. The R/T comes with a sports suspension with 20-inch wheels and Goodyear Eagle tires. The R/T is equipped like the SLT, though it also has Satellite Radio.

Options for all three models include a power sunroof, foglamps, full-size spare tire, and trailer tow package. Full-time 4WD is an option on the part-time 4WD SXT and SLT models. Options for the SLT and R/T include leather upholstery, navigation system, remote start, hands-free phone, luxury sound system with eight speakers plus subwoofer. The optional Multimedia Info-tainment System features navigation, audio, entertainment and communication wrapped into one, along with voice-command and a 20-gigabyte hard drive to store music and photos. Dodge Nitro Reviews

Walkaround

Dodge publicity makes a huge thing about the Nitro’s looks, citing its so-called athleticism. We’re not sure. We might call it brawny, but mostly it just looks boxy. The exaggerated fender flares are the only rounded parts in the styling. Every other angle is square-ish. It looks and feels larger than mid-size, which some will find to be a excellent thing.

From the front, it’s unmistakably Dodge. It’s got that huge crosshair grille, which looks much better in body color (R/T) than chrome (SXT, SLT). The horizontal headlamps, turn signal slits and foglamps are a tidy fit in the massive face.

But it doesn’t appear as if much attempt was made to have the front bumper/fascia be tidy; it’s got edges all over the place, including a valley that might hold a three-foot-wide license plate, or maybe a bumper sticker that says, “I’m a Dodge so I’m in your face!” Under that, there’s a wide air intake for the power steering cooler, whose thin fins are exposed to flying stones because there is no screen.

Taking a cue from the faux portholes on the Buick Lucerne, or possibly the tradition of a Mercedes-Benz sports car, there’s a trapezoid-shaped insert, black plastic with three chrome ribs, located just forward of the mirrors. It’s intended to look like a cooling slot. It’s a nice touch, and for such a small piece it goes a long way toward relaxing the Nitro’s blocky shape.

In silhouette, with its relatively upright windshield, very high beltline and rectangular windows, plus small front overhang, its shape is reminiscent of, say, a ‘62 Dodge Power Wagon. But from the rear three-quarter angle, the lines around the rear glass are reminiscent of its larger cousin, the Jeep Commander. We like the cleaner black, rather than chrome, around the windows.

Our test Nitro R/T was equipped with standard 20-inch chromed aluminum wheels, and they sure are showy. The much narrower sidewall on the 20-inch tires doesn’t appear to offer much defense against flats.

Interior Features

The SXT comes in a basic cloth, but the cloth in the SLT and R/T is something called YES Essentials; it claims to repel stains, control odors and reduce static electricity. The optional perforated charcoal leather with red stitching in our test R/T was gorgeous. The front buckets were very comfortable and supportive, with brilliant bolstering.

The steering wheel is a handsome four-spoke, with a huge center hub and thick spokes at 9:00 and 3:00 o’clock, smaller spokes at 5 and 7; the info center buttons are under your thumb on the huge spokes. There are three huge main instruments: speedo in center, tach on right and fuel and temp on left. They’re very excellent looking and especially legible, with the digital information still visible in the sun because the three pods are thoughtfully shrouded. Chrysler does gauges right, and generally blows GM out of the water when it comes to handsome style and function.

There’s excellent front seat legroom, and it feels like there’s even more because the dashboard is narrow, making the cabin feel nothing like that in a minivan. The dash also has an insert over the center stack, about 6 by 9 inches with grippy rubber at the bottom, and it’s perfect for, well, things. The glovebox is the full width of the passenger side.

Rearview visibility is very excellent, with just windows back there, no attempt at swoopy styling with sheetmetal. And again, because the front fenders have no rise or real shape, it’s simple to see the front corners of the vehicle, making parking a relief compared to many vehicles this size.

The square theme continues with the center stack and its instruments and buttons for the sound system and climate control, although nowadays many cars look like that, which isn’t terrible, just nearly natural. Everything is clean, simple to operate, and simple to know. We especially like the door handles, an intelligent ergonomic design: they’re like a half loop, and you simply slip three or four fingers of the hand against the door inside the handle, fingers facing forward so there’s no twist of the wrist, and pull.

Between the seats, along with the gearshift, transfer case, and emergency brake lever, there are two fixed cupholders and a small recess for change. There’s a shallow tray in the top of the center console storage bin, and a deep compartment under that; as one lady on the press launch said, it’s huge enough to stash her cat, on road trips.

But the Nitro really rises to the occasion behind the front seat. The Load ‘n Go function quickly and easily flops the 60/40 rear seats and front passenger seat really flat. With the liftgate raised, the carpeted (washable vinyl on the SXT) cargo floor slides rearward 18 inches, out over the bumper, saving a loader’s back. It can hold 400 pounds.

Under half of the cargo floor there’s a four-inch-deep compartment that can store things such as jumper cables and tools, or hide a laptop.

For the past couple of years, Dodge has been working hard on making their SUVs silent, and the Nitro succeeds. The 3. 7-liter engine is rather loud, but the Nitro’s sound-deadening material muffles it well.

Finally, the air conditioning might be fine on a normal day, but it seemed marginal for hot conditions.

Driving Impressions

After long cruises in both the Dodge Nitro SLT 4WD and R/T 2WD, we prefer the R/T.

The 3. 7-liter engine in the SLT is slightly harsh and too slow, and the four-speed automatic transmission needs another gear; we floored the SLT once at 40 mph, and the tranny didn’t kick down and the vehicle felt wimpy. The suspension takes bumps with a jolt, especially at lower speeds and mostly at the front wheels. And when we turned off the stability control and drove it aggressively around a hairpin turn, the front end washed out as terribly as anything we’ve felt in a long time, on its Goodyear Wrangler tires. This was surprising, because the Nitro is a rear-wheel-drive design.

The R/T costs about $2700 more, but it’s def. worth it. It’s better looking, with more of its trim in the same color as the body, although the 20″ chrome wheels are a bit expensive (as a $1405 option on the SLT, too terrible you can’t get 17-” size on the R/T and save the money). Chrysler’s R/T models are considered higher performance, but in this case it’s not hot-rod high performance.

The 4. 0-liter V6 is a new single overhead-cam engine. It’s rated at 260 horsepower, 50 more than the engine in the SLT, and it provides 265 pound-feet of torque at 4200 rpm. That’s a lot of horsepower and torque, and we can’t say that the R/T really feels like it has that much.

The R/T engine is quieter than the 3. 7-liter in the SLT, and it gets nearly the same mileage: 17 city and 21 highway in 2WD, with 89 octane recommended but 87 acceptable. We got 16. 7 mpg driving the R/T very hard.

The five-speed automatic transmission makes a difference in smoothness over the 4-speed. But in manual mode, it doesn’t do well. It responds to a shift by the driver (at least this driver) about half the time. As a result, passing on highways is unnecessarily perilous. The upshifts near redline (6000 rpm) are also a bit slow. And the shift mechanism is not comfortable, either.

The handling of the R/T is reasonable, and considerably more direct than the SLT; quality tires help quite a bit. But it’s the ride that’s much better, in this 2WD model. In theory, the R/T’s tuned suspension should be much more firm, and surely it is a better vehicle overall, but it’s also a lot more comfortable.

Summary

The Nitro is the first mid-size SUV from Dodge, and has all the Dodge character. It’s built on the same platform as the Jeep Liberty, and really feels larger than its size, thanks largely to a high beltline, high seating position, and much glass instead of sheetmetal at the rear corners. It’s not simple to make an SUV look distinctive, and the Nitro does well. Mechanically, it’s stimied by the 3. 7-liter engine and four-speed automatic transmission in the SXT and SLT, the most well loved models.

Model as tested

Dodge Nitro R/T ($25,310) Base Price

19225

Basic Warranty

3 years/50,000 miles Price as tested

28645

Assembled in

Toledo, Ohio Options as tested

Trailer Tow Group, power sunroof, AM/FM/6 CD/DVD/MP3 with 8 speakers plus subwoofer, full-size spare, hands-free communications ($2675)

Destination charge:

660

Gas guzzler tax:

N/A

Model Line Overview

Model lineup

Dodge Nitro SXT 2WD ($19,225); SXT 4WD ($20,735); SLT 2WD ($22,635); SXT 4WD ($24,145); R/T 2WD ($25,310); R/T 4WD ($26,970) Engines

4. 0-liter sohc V6

Safety equipment (standard)

multi-stage frontal airbags, front and rear side-impact airbags, curtain airbags; anti-lock disc brakes, electronic stability program with traction control and brake help, electronic roll mitigation, child seat anchor system, tire-pressure monitor Transmissions

5-speed automatic

Safety equipment (optional)

Specifications as Tested

Standard equipment

air conditioning, remote entry with power windows and door locks, power six-way adjustable driver’s seat, flat folding front passenger seat, 60/40 folding rear bench seat, Load ‘n Go cargo storage system with tie-down rails, AM/FM/CD with MP3 and six speakers, SIRIUS satellite radio, folding power heated mirrors, rear window washer/wiper, tilt steering column, cruise control, tinted windows, overhead console, vehicle information instrumentation, compass, 115-volt power outlet, auto-dimming rearview mirror, leather-wrapped steering wheel with audio controls, and 20-inch aluminum wheels

Engine & Transmission

Engine

4. 0-liter sohc V6 Transmission

5-speed automatic

Drivetrain type

rear-wheel drive EPA fuel economy, city/hwy

17/21

Horsepower (hp @ rpm)

260 @ 6000 Torque (lb. -ft. @ rpm)

265 @ 4200

Suspension

Brakes, front/rear

disc/disc with ABS Tires

P245/50R20

Suspension, front

independent Suspension, rear

independent

Accomodations

Seating capacity

5 Head/hip/leg room, front

40. 6/56. 8/40. 8

Head/hip/leg room, middle

N/A Head/hip/leg room, rear

40. 8/47. 4/37. 7

Measurements

Fuel capacity

19. 5 Payload

N/A

Trunk volume

75. 6 Towing capacity

5000

Wheelbase

108. 8 Track, front/rear

61. 0/61. 0

Length/width/height

178. 9/73. 1/69. 9 Ground clearance

7. 3

Turning circle

36. 3 Curb weight

39712007 Dodge Nitro User Reviews

Anyone with older aluminum siding is well aware of the paint chalking problem. Just rub your hand along the ancient siding and the chalky ancient paint will be all over your palm. Trying to get paint to stick to this could be a real problem. This is due to oxidation of the paint. Siding manufacturers originally referred to this problem as a benefit. They called it, self cleaning, as the paint literally washed off the house.
Older vinyl siding is also a problem. UV light fades vinyl siding over time and the siding becomes very unsightly.
Many unfortunate homeowners and contractors have experienced the dismay, when they repainted their homes, only to find the new paint peeling off a few months later. Both problems with older aluminum and vinyl siding can be overcome with proper cleaning, surface preparation and re-painting.
Cleaning ,you will need to rent a powerful pressure washer with at least 3000 psi. You will want a pressure washer powerful enough to remove most of the ancient chalky paint off the aluminum siding or, to remove any dirt buildup on the ancient vinyl siding.
Start at the top course of siding and work your way down. You will need to keep the pressure wand honestly close to the siding surface to effectively remove the ancient paint. In some areas, you may find that the paint comes off to the bare metal. Be careful near windows, corners, soffits and doorways. The water under pressure, can be forced behind these areas causing hurt. You can add TSP or other cleaning solutions to the reservoir for mildew, algae or other grime built up. If you do use a cleaning solution, be sure to completely rinse it off with your pressure washer. You should allow your home to dry for several days in dry, sunny weather before proceeding to the painting process.
If you are repainting vinyl siding or vinyl coated aluminum siding, you may need a surface de-glosser. This is a solvent type product used to remove any shine on the surface and to help your first coat to adhere better. You will have no distress finding a excellent de-glosser at your local paint supply store.
Application, i like a commercial type airless sprayer. It will draw the paint directly out of your 5 gallon paint pails, through the hose and into your spray gun. These are available to rent at many tool rental locations and even some paint supply stores that supply contractors. If your paint is real high quality latex, it will be thicker than regular latex paint and will require a more powerful airless sprayer.
Priming, this step is equally as critical as the step above. Really, the cleaning and surface preparation phases will make or break the results of your project.
I like a latex paint additive called emulsa-bond for the first coat. Emulsa-bond is a bonding agent you will add to the first coat of paint or primer, to help it to bond to the ancient siding.
I buy the best grade exterior latex paint, rather than oil or other solvent based paint. Latex paint seems to keep up with the expansion and contraction of the siding very well. The high quality latex paint I buy needs no primer. I add the bonding agent directly into the first color coat. Check with your paint supplier whether or not to use a primer. The rule of thumb is, when in doubt, use a primer. If you use a primer, add the bonding agent into it before applying. There are also bonding agents available for oil or other solvent based paints. One type is called penetrol. These are usually available at a painting contractor supply store.
Many contractors will spot prime areas, especially where bare metal is exposed. I dont like spot priming because it can lead to an uneven looking top coat. When I place a primer coat on, I prime the entire home. This gives a uniform surface end later on.
End Coat, your top coat will be color only. You should check with your paint manufacturer to see if you need one or two top coats after the base coat. Like I mentioned above, buy the highest quality exterior paint.
In Conclusion, proper cleaning and surface preparation are the two main ingredients to a successful painting job. A bonding agent in the first coat is also very critical to avoid paint peeling off later on. Using these techniques, Ive re-painted homes that have lasted far longer than the original factory applied end.

Anaerobic Threadlocking AdhesivesThreaded fasteners set and hold tolerances on assemblies ranging from light duty equipment to heavy machinery. In many cases fasteners that self-loosen during equipment operation may contribute to wear and fatigue, and result in poor operating tolerances, misalignment, and sometimes catastrophic equipment failures that cost millions of dollars in unscheduled downtime each year. Various types of differential stresses such as vibration and shock, thermal expansion and contraction, and micro-movement reduce clamping force on the assembly and ultimately cause machine failure. Case after case, anaerobic threadlocking adhesive technology has proven to be more reliable and cost efficient to prevent the loosening of threaded fasteners and leakage in a variety of applications versus mechanical fasteners such as spring washers, wire retainers and nylock nuts. Liquid threadlockers have become one of the most reliable and inexpensive ways to ensure that a threaded assembly will remain locked and leak proof for its entire service life. Applied drop-wise to fastener threads, liquid anaerobic adhesives fill the grooves of the threads and cure to a hard thermo-set plastic when exposed to active metal ions in the absence of air. Anaerobic adhesives lock the threaded parts together, ensuring that mating parts will ultimately act as one conjoined part that resists failure and delivers the greatest possible reliability. Mechanical devices such as spring washers, wire retainers and nylock nuts are costly and are ineffective in preventing loosening of threaded fasteners caused by side sliding motion. They also do not seal or prevent corrosion within the fastener assembly and must be sized appropriately for the specific fastener, resulting in large and costly parts inventories. Most assemblies held together by threaded fasteners will at some time be dismantled for repairs, maintenance or adjustment. For this purpose, industrial anaerobic adhesives are available in differing grades: low strength threadlockers for simple removal, medium strength threadlockers that can be removed using common hand tools and high strength or “permanent” threadlockers suitable for very demanding assemblies with minimal service requirements. Even the high strength threadlockers can be removed with standard hand tools following direct exposure to 232 – 260°C (450-500°F) high temperatures for about five minutes. Using Anaerobic Adhesives Reduce Cost and Increase Reliability for IndustriesSeveral case studies from various industries manufacturing and maintenance applications show that anaerobic threadlocking adhesives increase the reliability of threaded fasteners and reduce the cost associated with downtime and unscheduled callbacks. In one case study with hydropulpers – machines designed to agitate a mixture of paper pulp and water to prevent dewatering until this mix can be used in the papermaking process extreme vibration incurred by the machine resulted in problems with keeping the mounting bolts for the gearbox tight. Even with proper torquing procedures, the bolts needed to be retightened every two weeks – requiring additional labor costs and downtime. Unplanned loosening caused misalignment problems and equipment failure resulting in severe productivity loss and maintenance costs. Once anaerobic thread locking adhesives were introduced to all the mounting studs and nuts during a recent downtime, loose bolts were no longer causing problems and held the hydropulper gearbox tight until the next scheduled annual preventive maintenance. In another case, a pump manufacturer had problems with gland studs and adjustment nuts that either broke during assembly or loosened during adjustment. Gland studs were made to Class 5 interference fit tolerance of 0. 0254 – 0. 213mm (0. 001″ to 0. 0084″) To achieve this, special oversized studs with 0. 0762mm (0. 003″) tolerance pitch diameter were used with a Class 2 tapped hole. Stud drivers were used with a capability of driving M12 (½”) studs up to 111. 6 kg/m (75 lbs/ft) and M20 (¾”) studs up to 282. 7 kg/m (190 lbs/ft). Any deviation from tolerance resulted either in broken studs during assembly or loosened studs during gland adjustment with the retaining nut. If studs loosened, the whole pump needed to be disassembled for repair. The heavy interference fits caused high flange stresses which warped the end plates and gland box causing power loss, excess wear, and shortened pump life. The manufacture utilized threadlocking adhesives to solve this problem. When threadlockers were applied during assembly to Standard Class 2 studs up to and including M12 (½”), over M12 and stud nuts, cost savings were immediately achieved because the manufacture of studs now requires only standard tolerance and standard gauges, while assembly is easily done by hand. The locking ability of the threadlockers exceeds the interference fit strength by about 20% and adjustments of the gland nuts are simple and precise because the studs are never loose. Finally, all housings are now stress and warp free. A traffic infrastructure tunneling solutions manufacturer, uses threadlocking adhesives to lock all the screws, hydraulic motors, hoses and fittings in their tunnel dull machines, which have to withstand enormous pressure while eating its way through rocks underground. In this case, threaded fittings have to resist up to 350 bar oil pressure. “An insane piece of engineering” is how the Discovery Channel describes the machine that drilled a 5. 4 and a 3. 9-kilometer tunnel in Kuala Lumpur in 2006. The 82-meter tunnel dull machine is as tall as a high rise building with 20 floors lying on its side. Imagine this machine moving through the ground, encountering a variety of soil types and loading conditions, hard rock or loose rock, working under tremendous pressures, high stresses, torques, rotating and twisting forces. Threadlocking adhesives are able to resist the extremely high oil pressure and provide reliable locking, sealing and long-term vibration resistance. Liquid threadlockers were also applied at a hydraulic lift manufacturer for forestry, mining and construction use. M16 structural bolts on the base turn table of the lift, which holds the boom & bucket loosened when subjected to severe vibrations, impacts & shear loads. Previously nyloc nuts were used to prevent vibrational loosening of these bolts but they failed to retain clamp load over long periods. Bolts also had to be retorqued frequently. After threadlockers were used, the bolts retained clamp load under severe conditions without any loosening while protecting threads from rust and corrosion. Re-torquing of bolts was no longer needed and safety and equipment reliability were improved. New Innovations in Anaerobic Threadlocking TechnologyNew technological advances in anaerobic threadlocking adhesives have also provided many advantages previously unavailable including surface insensitive, high temperature, and chemically resistant materials, as well as formulations engineered to withstand extreme vibrations. Semi-solid threadlocking formulations in a stick format that complement their liquid counterparts have also been developed to work well in overhead or hard to reach applications where liquids might be too messy or potential migration might be a concern. Since its invention in 1953, liquid anaerobic threadlocking adhesives and thread sealants have become the most reliable and cost efficient methods for sealing and securing threaded fasteners and pipefittings in a variety of assemblies in many different industries. Many case studies have demonstrated that these innovative anaerobic adhesives and sealants are better able to withstand various types of differential stresses such as vibration and shock, wide range of temperatures and micro-movements that reduce clamping forces than traditional mechanical threadlockers to reduce downtime, unscheduled maintenance and costs.